Pearls are unlike any other gemstone. While diamonds and sapphires are mined, a pearl grows in a living mollusc, layer by layer, building a soft glow that no lab can perfectly replicate. If you’re shopping for a pearl necklace or studs earring, understanding the key characteristics of pearls will help you make a confident, lasting choice.
Let’s decode the traits experts look for lustre, surface, nacre thickness, shape, size, and colour, and also how each one affects both beauty and value.
1. Lustre: The Soul of a Pearl
Lustre is the mirror-like sheen that makes a pearl glow. High-lustre pearls reflect light sharply, showing clear, crisp reflections. Lower-lustre pearls look chalky or dull. If you plan to buy a pearl necklace for daily wear, choose high-lustre pearls—they brighten the complexion and elevate even a simple outfit.
Quick Tip: Hold the pearl under neutral light and observe the reflections. Sharper reflection = better lustre. For studs earring, higher lustre matters even more because the pearls sit near the face.
2. Nacre Thickness: Layered Strength and Glow
Nacre is the material a mollusc secretes to form a pearl. Thick nacre gives deeper lustre and better durability. Pearls with substantial nacre feel more “alive,” with a glow that seems to come from within. Thin-nacre pearls can look glassy and are more prone to chipping or losing shine over time.
Quick Tip: When possible, ask about nacre thickness, especially for a pearl necklace you’ll wear frequently.
3. Surface Quality: Nature’s Signature
Because pearls are organic, small surface features are normal. Tiny pinpricks or natural growth lines don’t usually affect beauty. However, heavy spotting, pits, or large blemishes can reduce value. On a strand, look for pearls with clean surfaces and minimal visible marks; on a studs earring, choose pearls that are smooth and blemish-free on the front.
4. Shape: Classic Round vs. Modern Unique
Round pearls remain the most prized and often the most expensive. But near-round, oval, drop, and baroque pearls offer gorgeous character and better value. A round pearl necklace delivers classic elegance; baroque pearl earrings add editorial flair and movement. Shape is a style choice so prioritise what makes you feel most you.
5. Size: Subtle to Statement
Pearl size is measured in millimetres. Everyday pearl studs around 6–7.5 mm feel refined and versatile; 8–9.5 mm reads more luxe; 10 mm+ is bold and iconic. For a pearl necklace, even a 1 mm difference across the strand can be noticeable. Balance your face shape, wardrobe, and comfort.
6. Color & Overtone: The Mood of Your Pearl
Common natural colors include white, cream, golden, pink, and grey, often with overtones (rosé, silver, green, or blue) that layer on top. Cool silver overtones feel modern, rosé flatters warm skin tones, and golden pearls are radiant against deeper complexions. Try your pearl necklace and studs earring in daylight to assess how the color plays with your skin tone.
7. Matching on a Necklace Strand
In a pearl necklace, the art lies in matching: consistent color, lustre, size progression, and surface quality. A well-matched strand looks harmonious and luxurious. Graduated strands (smaller near the clasp, larger at center) can elongate the neck and feel vintage-chic.
8. Drill & Setting Quality
Well-drilled pearls sit straight and secure. In studs earring, check the orientation and the stability of the setting. For necklaces, a sturdy silk thread with knots between pearls prevents rubbing and loss if the strand ever breaks.
9. Natural vs. Cultured vs. Imitation
Natural pearls occur without human intervention and are rare. Cultured pearls are formed when a technician initiates the process—these are the vast majority of pearls on the market and offer beautiful quality at accessible prices. Imitation pearls are glass or plastic beads coated to look pearly; they lack depth of lustre and are less durable.
10. Care & Longevity
Lasting beauty requires gentle care: store pearls separately, wipe with a soft cloth after wear, and avoid chemicals, perfumes, and extreme heat. Restring a pearl necklace every 1–2 years if worn often.
FAQ
Do pearls go out of style?
No, pearls are timeless. Their versatility keeps them relevant across fashion trends and generations.
Can I wear pearls every day?
Yes, but daily wear requires care. Avoid exposure to sweat, cosmetics, and chemicals to preserve their lustre.
Why are my pearls losing their shine?
Pearls can dry out or get coated in residue. Wipe them gently after each wear and store them in a breathable pouch.
Can men wear pearls?
Absolutely. Men's pearl jewelry is growing in popularity, especially in modern and minimal designs.
Is it OK to shower with pearl jewelry?
No. Soaps and hot water can damage the nacre and weaken silk threads. Always remove before bathing.
How do I store pearls properly?
Keep them in a soft pouch or cloth-lined box, away from other jewelry to prevent scratching.
Do pearls need special care?
Yes. Pearls are soft and can be damaged by chemicals, heat, and dryness. Store them separately and avoid contact with perfumes or hairspray.
Can pearls change colour over time?
Yes, pearls can yellow or dull over time if not stored properly, especially if they dry out or are exposed to sunlight or chemicals.
Why do some pearls have blemishes or irregularities?
These are natural imperfections formed during the pearl's growth. Minor blemishes are common and don't necessarily affect the pearl’s beauty or value significantly.
How long do pearls last?
With proper care, pearls can last for generations. However, their organic nature means they are more delicate than gemstones or metals.